3
A Photograph Essay by Jerry Olivas
Croatia has so much to supply in all places, however for hill cities one very particular place to go to is Motovun, within the north, on the Istria Peninsula. This place checks all of the packing containers for character and attraction. The title itself is claimed to have derived from the Celtic phrase Montona, which means “a city within the hills.”
You possibly can expertise Motovun in a day, even half a day, effectively, possibly an hour, however to expertise its full laid-back ambiance, you want just a few days.
Attending to Motovun: Your Journey to the Coronary heart of Istria
There isn’t a airport, rail station, or bus station, for that matter, in Motovun. Croatia affords bus and rail providers, however they’re restricted. The best choice is flying into Pula, renting a automobile, and driving an hour, totally on a four-lane toll highway, to Motovun.
You might additionally fly to Zagreb or Ljubljana (Slovenia). Driving from Ljubljana takes about two hours, whereas Zagreb is roughly three hours away. From Trieste, Italy, the drive takes two hours, and from Venice, it’s about three. Ferries function alongside the Croatian coast and from Italy, reaching Istrian cities like Poreč, Rovinj, and Pula, the place you possibly can hire a automobile.
I like to recommend flying to Pula, renting a automobile, taking the toll highway north, after which the brief two-lane highway to Motovun. Drive fastidiously on the two-lane roads as cyclists typically share the route, and so they have the proper of means. Motovun sits on a hill, and its slender cobblestone streets are principally pedestrian-only. Guests typically park within the well-lit lot on the backside of the hill and take a shuttle bus to the city. From there, it’s a brief stroll over uneven cobblestones into the middle.
Croatia’s hilly terrain means you’ll typically be navigating slopes, so take care with curler luggage and watch your step. If wanted, your resort, B&B, or condo host could decide you up on the parking zone—simply prepare a time upfront.
Keep in Fashion: The place Consolation Meets Attraction in Motovun
There are just a few decisions for the place to remain in Motovun. There may be one important resort, Boutique Lodge Kaštel, the place my spouse and I stayed, in addition to just a few B&Bs and flats. The Boutique Lodge Kaštel was an ideal match for us. Staying in a B&B or condo would have in all probability meant being on a extra inflexible arrival and departure schedule, presumably with tight dwelling quarters, and the need to top off on some provides.
The Boutique Lodge Kaštel has solely thirty-three rooms, so it’s small, nevertheless it packs an enormous punch for facilities, together with a restaurant, spa providers, and even an indoor pool. And like with all of our travels in Croatia, the employees had been very good and useful. We particularly loved their secret backyard the place we performed an uncommon sport of Pendulum Bowling, the place a tough ball swinging on a rope is used to knock over bowling pins. This was the proper lodging to relax out and unwind.
Savour the Flavors: Truffles, Wine & Culinary Delights
Croatian meals is superb, and there’s no scarcity of eating places. Motovun itself appears to be a vacation spot for foodies, with all of the eating places almost full for lunch and dinner. That mentioned, we all the time appeared to get a pleasant, quiet desk, often outdoors. Boutique Lodge Kaštel has a wonderful restaurant, Restaurant Kaštel, with terrace seating. We shared the gnocchi as soon as, and it was scrumptious, however all the pieces regarded good. Nevertheless, Croatians and guests to Croatia prefer to smoke, so try to get a desk upwind if attainable.
The specialty is something with native white truffles and, in the event you don’t like olive oil, sorry, as a result of it’s a staple. Croatian olive oil is exceptionally flavorful. Largely important dishes are served with white truffles and olive oil base sauce. Contemporary grilled fish from the Adriatic with white truffles and olive oil sauce was our favorite. As for dessert, it’s best to share right here as a result of the parts are massive. They won’t disappoint—particularly the gelato. Native and contemporary appears to be the rule for all the pieces.
Croatian Wines
Croatian beer is sweet, however Croatian wines are spectacular and really moderately priced. So, after all, we all the time had a bottle for lunch and one other bottle for dinner, to separate. Motovun eating places principally serve native whites and reds. Malvazija is a superb white and a sensible choice for lunch. For dinner, an area purple made with Teran grapes was our favorite with its full-bodied, gentle blended fruit flavours.
The day we left, we made it a degree to cease on the Fakin Vineyard, just some miles from Motovun, for a tasting of their malvasia, Teran, and different wines. This was effectively definitely worth the cease. A bunch of liquors are served all through Croatia with Motovun providing some native apple brandy that’s good to high off a night.
Unwind and Discover: The Magic of Motovun’s Medieval Streets
It’s tempting to go on one of many organized excursions from Motovun, like truffle looking or wine and olive oil tasting. Even a go to to among the different close by hill cities or coastal communities is attractive. These all seem like enjoyable, and you may get data from the Vacationer Board Motovun workplace in the primary sq., just some steps from the Boutique Lodge Kaštel. However we got here to Motovun to relax out and take within the vibes of this picturesque and tranquil place.
We spent our time taking gradual and cautious walks on the few cobblestone streets, taking in Motovun’s medieval Venetian Renaissance structure and views of the encompassing Miran Valley. Day guests don’t arrive till late morning, and they’re all passed by late afternoon. So, early within the day, afternoon, and night, the complete small city is yours. In fact, within the low season, I doubt many go to Motovun.
You don’t want to walk very far in Motovun to find one thing attention-grabbing. It helps to have a considerably curious nature, nevertheless it’s not obligatory as a result of each step appears to supply one thing particular. You in a short time begin to step into Motovun’s previous, with the complete Istria peninsula having a wealthy and lengthy historical past with centuries of many modifications in political management.
There are many benches and locations to sit down throughout Motovun and the views of the valleys surrounding Motovun are spectacular. The very best views are from the highest of the about 100-foot-high city’s bell tower; simply over 1,000 steps to the highest. Take it gradual and simple, and you may be in for an impressive, well-earned reward.
Saint Stephen Church, designed by Venetian architect Andrea Palladio within the 14th century, is subsequent to the bell tower and is unquestionably value a go to. It’s a good, quiet, and funky place to relaxation after conquering the bell tower. Then you possibly can take a brief stroll on town wall with nice views of the valleys beneath or be tempted by among the native artwork within the small personal galleries.
Step Again in Time: Legends, Ghosts, and Ley Traces
If you’re inclined to analysis, you will discover some notable individuals who have lived and labored in Motovun. Mario Andretti, the well-known race automobile driver, was born right here. There’s a plaque on the wall of the home the place he lived. The Renaissance music printer and composer Andrea Antico was additionally born in Motovun and quite a few different artists labored and lived in Motovun.
In case you like myths and legends, Motovun is filled with them. Our favorite right here was the certainly one of Veli Jože (Huge Joe). The nineteenth—and Twentieth-century Croatian author and poet Vladimir Nazor made common the story of this legendary big and protector of Motovun. He was a great big, however when he acquired mad, it was mentioned that he would shake the bell tower.
Definitely, there are ghosts in Motovun and strolling round at night time is a bit eerie, however that simply added to the enjoyable. I didn’t see any, nevertheless, however definitely, they had been watching us, so we had been all the time on our greatest behaviour. You do get a fascinating feeling when strolling the cobblestone streets that so much has occurred, some good and a few not-so-good.
That is heightened by the assumption that Motovun sits on geographic ley strains (additionally known as dragon strains) which could be a constructive pressure for well being and wellbeing. Novice archaeologists have decided these strains, so they don’t seem to be scientifically verified. Stonehenge and different monolithic websites all over the world are additionally thought-about to be positioned on ley strains.
My spouse and I don’t comply with this metaphysical mind-set, however Motovun undoubtedly imparts a sense of constructive vitality. The day we left, we felt renewed vigour, perception, and a constructive perspective. We already really feel the pull to return to the Peninsula to calm down, recharge, and take within the good karma.
Jerry Olivas lives in Southern California, the place he surfs and cares for his two cats. His current writings and images embrace Brief Éditions, “Tracks and Pie,” New English Overview, “Mrs. Tar, Chain Smoker with Fashion,” and European Journey Journal, “La Rioja—Wine and So A lot Extra.”